ASTM D6193-16

4.2.1 Strength—The seam efficiency of the sewn seam should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam strength with a balanced construction that will withstand the forces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elements affecting the strength of a sewn seam are:

4.2.2 Elasticity—The elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. This will enable the material to support its share of the forces encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The elasticity of a sewn seam depends upon:

4.2.3 Durability—The durability of a sewn seam depends largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam and the elasticity of the material. However, in less elastic, tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for the plies to “work” or slide on each other. To form a durable sewn seam in these types of fabrics, the thread size must be carefully chosen. The stitch density also needs to be carefully determined for the material so as not to cause excess tension which will unbalance the elasticity and cause puckering. It is also important to minimize abrasion and wear by contact with outside agencies to promote durability.

4.2.4 Security—The security of a sewn seam depends chiefly upon the stitch type, spi, and its susceptibility to become unraveled. The stitch must be well set to the material to prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread and unraveling of certain stitch types.

4.2.5 Appearance—The appearance of a sewn seam generally is governed by the proper relationship between the size and type of thread, the stitch density, and the texture and weight of the fabric.

1.3.1 Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,

1.3.3 Annex A1—Seam Assembly Recommendations.